Tuesday, September 24, 2013

I'll be home in 500 miles!

I took a step over the threshold, caffeine from the mocha-flavored Rockstar that I chugged and adrenaline both surging through my veins. A wide smile stretched across my face as I glanced from my feet to the small green sign from which point my imagination drew a divisive line midway through the raised steel. I gazed out across the smooth water far below that sparkled from the low Sun's castings, thinking about how far I had come. I turned back and forth, looking first to the South where I had made so many amazing and unforgettable memories, then to the North where the unknown final chapters of our journey were to be written. Solstice, Shady, and I stood half way across The Bridge of the Gods over the middle of the Columbia River preparing to take a step from Oregon into Washington. We were ready and antsy to cross into a different state; however, Solstice and I knew something was missing. I had never passed a monumental milestone without Explagrance at my side, but I needed this and she needed one night in town with Steamer and Rub-a-dub. Even though I wasn't planning to go far, I wanted to sleep in Washington, not because I was sick of or disliked Oregon, but because I had looked at the bridge all weekend at Trail Days only to hitch 47 miles back to Timberline to complete the last section of Oregon we had skipped to attend the hiker festival. In all reality, I loved hiking Oregon. It held a few of my favorite sections including Crater Lake and Three Sisters Wilderness. We had even finished Oregon with a bang, hiking down the incredible Eagle Creek Trail famous for its views of several jaw-dropping waterfalls, especially Tunnel Falls where the trail passes through a tunnel in the rock face behind the falls. As we walked across the bridge that looked as if it were constructed from an oversized erector set, I thought about how we only had one state left. We had hiked through all of California and all of Oregon. We only have about 500 miles left! It's funny to think how our perspectives have changed. The first 500 miles seemed to take forever! We thought they they would never end. But now, as we enter into our final 500 miles, I can't help but think how little time we have left on trail. Hiking this trail has been an incredibly unique and life changing journey. Finally reaching Canada and bringing our adventure to a close is likely to be a bittersweet moment. As quick as I expect it to go, however, I am determined to make Washington just as unforgettable as California and Oregon!























Monday, September 23, 2013

Cascade Locks to Snoqualmie

Unfortunately, Washington has yet to raise to the standards set forth by California and Oregon. Our first couple days in Washington were marked by extreme heat and humidity, few views, and steeply graded and overgrown trails. Then Washington did a 180. A cold rain settled over the state and we were forced to carry the pounds of undrinkable water that soaked our packs and clothes.
Half way to White Pass, we made a side trip into the town of Trout Lake to visit Trout Lake Abbey, a Buddhist monastery. We wanted to gain the cultural experience that we failed to receive in Mt Shasta. We acquired a hitch into town from the Monk who oversaw the Abbey and a visiting Priest. The car ride was full of insight into their beliefs and the workings of the Abbey. The Abbey, they told us, is 87% self sustainable and 100% organic and up to code on animal welfare. Instead of slaughtering the free range chickens when they become too old to produce eggs, the Abbey maintains a sort of chicken nursing home. The Abbey is full of temples, meditation rooms, gardens, statuary, and personal cabins for independent and completely private practice. Best of all, the Abbey sits in fields beneath the presence of Mt Adams. Monk Kozen and Jeff allowed us to do our laundry and shower for free. After we cleaned, Jeff led us in a private guided meditation. We learned basic meditation practices and a little about the goals of Buddhism. Afterward, we gave thanks to the Buddhist guardian of travelers, Jizo Bodhisattva, to help guide us safely along our journey. It was one of our favorite experiences along trail!
The rain continued to White Pass. We really had high hopes for this section because the trail ascends into Goat Rocks Wilderness, which is said to compare with the formidable mountains of the High Sierras. As we climbed higher and higher toward the summit of Old Snowy, we were met with only more and more fog and rain. It felt as though we were hiking a winter mountain like Everest. We crossed glacial fields, edged near hair-raising cliff edges, and climbed the steep face of Old Snowy in high winds and rain that brought visibility to near zero. We found relief from the wind when we reached the summit but we could see nothing. Desiring to get out of the rain as soon as possible, we began the treacherous descent. Knife's edge is aptly named for its sheer drops on both sides. At points along the 3 mile ridge walk, the trail is built from stacked flat granite stones that shift under foot. The fierce winds and rain came up from below the mountain in an attempt to throw you over the edge. Ryan never thought something could be so miserable yet so cool at the same time. Lindsay focused mostly on the miserable aspect, as she was too worried about blowing off the edge to stop and change into pants. The hike along Knifes Edge was clearly dangerous in these conditions but we had no choice; we had to get off the mountain in order to make camp and get dry. After several miles, we found shelter among a small group of pines and pitched our tent for the night.
The next morning, the rain had slowed to a sprinkle and eventually a mist. We made our way down to White Pass for a night in a warm hotel room where we could dry all of our gear and get a good night's rest.
Out of White Pass, we planned for a four day hike to Snoqualmie. The days had finally become clear, warm, and beautiful and we were greeted with views of Mt Rainier. We hiked through Rainier Wilderness to highway 410 where we received trail magic from Brook and her husband. Ex managed to southbound when she crossed the road, then crossed it again over a foot bridge. Listening to Game of Thrones on audio would have kept her distracted from the familiar territory for quite some time, but luckily Girly Girl turned her northbound about a mile in. Her poor sense of direction continues to amaze Golden Boy.
On the fourth day, we planned to hike 29 miles into Snoqualmie. The rain couldn't stay away. Eleven miles into the hike, we were surprised by trail magic hosted by Stumbling Norwegian and his friend Trash Man. Stumbling Norwegian was the man who helped our mom lighten her pack at kickoff. His trail magic was beyond compare. He offered freshly baked cookies, brownies, fresh fruit and vegetables, pop, beer, and home made kahlua. He grilled us burgers and veggie sausages for lunch and steak and vegetables for dinner! We relaxed and had an amazing time with them and the other hikers that showed. We cowboy camped beneath the tarp shelter he constructed and awoke to coffee, and steak, bacon, and eggs. We didn't want to leave! Solstice broke the female record for the longest time spent at the magic with a time of 25.5 hours. Reluctantly, we set off in the rain for Snoqualmie.